A Washington town isolated from the U.S. is now cut off from Canada, too

COVID-19 border closures have curtailed the international routines of the tiny town of Point Roberts.

 

In 2014, a couple watch for whales from the shore of Point Roberts, Washington. The isolated community usually relies on free travel between the U.S. and Canada, but during COVID-19 travel restrictions, residents are relatively trapped on the small peninsula.

On a clear Saturday morning in July, I called the Saltwater Café in Point Roberts, Washington. The café is usually crowded with dozens of customers seated inside and out on the patio, taking in the view of the Gulf Islands across the Salish Sea and enjoying the salty breeze from the beach across the street. “On a normal weekend, you can’t get a seat,” said owner Tamra Hansen. But on the morning she talked to me, just one table was occupied; business has been down 75% since the COVID-19 pandemic hit.

Across the U.S., businesses and communities are struggling. But Point Roberts is in a unique position — not just figuratively, but geographically. Located on the tip of the Tsawwassen Peninsula, the town falls entirely below the 49th parallel, the line that separates Canada and the U.S. To reach the closest town in the mainland U.S., Point Roberts residents must cross into Canada through a border checkpoint at the northern end of town, drive about 25 miles, then cross back into the U.S. through yet another checkpoint near Blaine, Washington.

Mapbox

Usually, those crossings are a mere formality; before the pandemic, it wasn’t uncommon for U.S. and Canadian citizens to cross the border several times a day for sports practices, shopping trips and visits. But since officials restricted cross-border travel in March, Point Roberts’ roughly 1,000 full-time residents find themselves unexpectedly isolated, estranged from their usual lifestyle. Now, the invisible line dividing the two countries stands in the way of what was once an easy drive, and after four months of the pandemic, people on the Point miss the things they used to take for granted. “It’s very odd to be seven minutes away,” said Jessie Hettinga, a Point Roberts resident. “That was your life, but now, that’s not a possibility.”

It’s a common misconception that Point Roberts was a mistake; people often assume that when the U.S. and Great Britain signed the 1846 Oregon Treaty, which established the 49th parallel as the border between the two nations’ territories, land surveyors didn’t realize they were carving off Point Roberts from Canada. But the choice was intentional, meant to serve as a strategic advantage for the U.S., said Mark Swenson, treasurer of the Point Roberts Historical Society and author of Point Roberts Backstory, a history of the town.

As a result, Point Roberts has always had a fluid relationship with its Canadian neighbors. “We’re a community with one foot in both countries,” Swenson said. “We rely on each other.” During Prohibition, for instance, Point Roberts was a key rum-running port. “There was a speakeasy and brothel right on the border, on the Canadian side of the line, and the window opened into Point Roberts,” Swenson said. The tables turned in the ‘60s, when Canadians began visiting Point Roberts to purchase alcohol because of a British Columbia law prohibiting its sale on Sundays, until the law was changed in 1986 for the World Expo in Vancouver. “You could have 10,000 Canadians in Point Roberts on any given Sunday through the ’60s, ’70s and early ’80s,” said Swenson.

“We’re a community with one foot in both countries. We rely on each other.” 

Now, however, most visits are prohibited. Residents of Point Roberts can cross the border only to work, pick up prescriptions or go to a doctor’s appointment in the mainland U.S., and they’re not allowed to stop in Canada at all during the trip. The only other way to reach the mainland is by private boat, or the twice-weekly $135 flight to Bellingham, Washington.

Border restrictions have never been as prolonged as the current ones — which will continue through August, if not longer — since the boundary was established, Swenson said. Even the closure following the 9/11 terrorist attacks lasted less than a day. The isolation “starts to wear on people,” said Christopher Carleton, the town’s fire chief. “That’s the point we’re at now: It’s leading to higher depression, and a lack of physical contact is causing a small crisis within my community.” 

The Point Roberts International Marketplace in 2014. As the only full-service grocer in town, it can be hard to keep the alcohol selection stocked for all the summer tourists. Due to current travel restrictions now, overall sales are down.

IN JULY, Carleton wrote to President Donald Trump, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and other government officials, urging them to “recognize the unique circumstances” of Point Roberts and find a way to allow more open transit. Previously, two petitions on Change.org seeking to expand the list of activities that justify border crossings garnered thousands of signatures. One of the petitions, created by Canadian resident Kevin McIntosh, requested that Canadians with homes, boats or livestock in Point Roberts be allowed to cross into the U.S. to take care of their property; he wrote that he was concerned that his “Canadian-licensed pleasurecraft” moored in Point Roberts might sink without proper maintenance. After five weeks, McIntosh gave up waiting for an answer. On an update to his petition page, he described how what used to be a few minutes’ drive had turned into a full day’s journey: He flew from Vancouver to Seattle, rented a car to drive about 100 miles north to Bellingham, took the afternoon flight to Point Roberts and then spent a few days repairing his boat before sailing home.

The lack of tourists this season has affected the many local businesses that depend on Canadians’ money. Dean Priestman, manager of Point Roberts International Marketplace, the only full-service grocery store in town, said that he normally has so many customers in the summer that it’s hard to keep the alcohol selection stocked. This year, however, overall sales are down. While demand for some products remains — Priestman said he’s gotten some niche requests from Canadians for items they can only get in the U.S., like Grape Nuts, specific flavors of Tim’s Cascade Potato Chips, or Tillamook butter and cheese — the cost of international shipping has deterred such orders. “It’s usually a hustle-and-bustle place, but it’s not right now,” Priestman said. “It’s quiet.”

“For us in Point Roberts, with the lack of services and ability to cross, we’re very restricted. I feel like we’re on house arrest.”

That quiet has extended to residents’ daily routines. Hettinga, who has three teenagers, said that between the kids’ sports practices and errands, it wasn’t uncommon for her to cross the border as frequently as nine times a day. Now, her daughter, an accomplished gymnast, and her hockey-playing son are trying to train via Zoom, in their backyard. “My daughters’ teammates are all together in Canada — they’re in the gym, and their life hasn’t changed,” she said. The last time Hettinga drove through Canada for approved business on the mainland, a pang of sadness hit her when she passed her favorite Greek restaurant. She and her husband used to go there every Friday; they know the servers by name, and the servers know their usual orders. Now, however, it would be illegal for her to even pick up a take-out order. “For us in Point Roberts, with the lack of services and ability to cross, we’re very restricted,” she said. “I feel like we’re on house arrest.”

The pandemic and consequent border closure have also added tension to the usually friendly relations between Canadians and Americans. “We have a huge issue in our country with the virus spreading, and there’s a lot of fear associated with Americans because of that,” Hettinga said. There have been stories in the local paper, the All Point Bulletin, of Canadians harassing drivers with American plates, and now that Canada has created hotlines for reporting suspected rule-breaking Americans, U.S. drivers don’t feel welcome. Hettinga’s son will be attending school in Canada in the fall, and she’s worried that he’ll be bullied for being American.

In some ways, though, the town’s isolation has been a boon for its residents. With few people leaving the area or coming in, the town is insulated from the rising case counts in other parts of Washington. The fire department offers COVID-19 testing, and so far, with 500 tests completed, no one has tested positive. Many say they’re grateful for the natural beauty of their town; though the lack of tourism is bad for business, it means residents often have the whole beach to themselves. And Swenson, the Point Roberts historian, said he appreciates the ingenuity of his neighbors, who still find ways to see one another across the international divide. In Point Roberts, Roosevelt Way runs parallel to the border, and a few Canadian cul-de-sacs in neighboring Tsawwassen run up to it from the other side, with just a curb separating the two countries. “You’ll see someone bring a lawn chair and sit on the Canadian side with an American sitting on the other side — six feet apart — catching up,” Swenson said. “That’s an only-in-Point-Roberts kind of scene.”

Jane C. Hu is a contributing editor for High Country News and an independent journalist who writes about science, technology and the outdoors. She lives in Seattle. Email her at [email protected] or submit a letter to the editor

High Country News Classifieds
  • MATADOR RANCH MANAGER
    The Matador Ranch Manager directs operations, communication, and maintenance for TNC Montana's Matador Ranch preserve with a focus on ecological management and restoration, grazing management,...
  • EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR - THRIVE HOOD RIVER (OREGON)
    Thrive Hood River (Oregon) is looking for a collaborative leader who cares deeply about Hood River's wild places, farmland and the quality of life in...
  • NORTHERN NEW MEXICO PROJECT MANAGER
    Seeking qualified Northern New Mexico Project Manager to provide expertise, leadership and support to the organization by planning, cultivating, implementing and managing land conservation activities....
  • NORTH FORK RECREATION DISTRICT ADMINISTRATOR
    The NFPPRD District Administrator provides leadership and managerial services associated with the Recreation District. Facilities include a seasonal pool, ballfields, bike trails, tennis/pickleball and skateboarding....
  • EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BADLANDS CONSERVATION ALLIANCE
    The Executive Director of the Badlands Conservation Alliance (BCA) builds and leads a premiere North Dakota advocacy group that serves to protect the ecology of...
  • CLIMATE FELLOW
    Application deadline: Monday, March 6th, 2023, at 5 p.m. MST. Anticipated start date: May 15, 2023 About the position Are you ready to craft an...
  • RISING LEADERS MANAGER
    Application deadline: Monday, March 27, 2023, at 5 p.m. MST Anticipated start date: May 22 or May 30, 2023 About the position Do you want...
  • SENIOR SPECIALIST, LANDSCAPE CONNECTIVITY YELLOWSTONE TO YUKON CONSERVATION INITIATIVE
    About the Organization Yellowstone to Yukon Conservation Initiative (Y2Y) is a joint Canada-U.S. not-for-profit organization with a mission to connect and protect wildlife habitat from...
  • VIRGINIA SPENCER DAVIS FELLOWSHIP
    High Country News, an award-winning magazine covering the communities and environment of the Western United States, seeks applicants for a Virginia Spencer Davis fellow. The...
  • GRANTS MANAGER
    The Grants Manager is a passionate information manager, fundraiser, and communicator versed in government and foundation grant and cooperative agreement writing and management, specifically to...
  • COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR
    The Communications Director is a passionate communications professional versed in conservation and regenerative agriculture, as well as nonprofit communications and data management across several program...
  • EDUCATION AND OUTREACH PROGRAM DIRECTOR
    The Education and Outreach Director is a people-oriented facilitator, communications wizard, and team leader who has experience designing, managing, and fundraising for land based educational...
  • ADOBE HOME FOR SALE
    Restored traditional adobe home in No. New Mexico on 1+ acre site, irrigation water, separate large shop/studio. Please email for photos/full description.
  • HIGH COUNTRY NEWS EDITORIAL INTERNS
    High Country News, an award-winning magazine covering the communities and environment of the Western United States, is looking for its next cohort of editorial interns....
  • DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM SPECIALIST
    hat We Can Achieve Together: If you are a detailed individual that takes pride in your accuracy, this position may be the perfect opportunity for...
  • EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR - LEMHI COUNTY HUMANE SOCIETY (SALMON, IDAHO)
    Are you ready to take the reins at Lemhi County Humane Society and make a difference in the lives of countless animals? We are seeking...
  • ENVIRONMENTAL AND CONSTRUCTION GEOPHYSICS
    We characterize contaminated sites, identify buried drums, tanks, debris and also locate groundwater.
  • WESTERN NATIVE SEED
    Native plant seeds for the Western US. Trees, shrubs, grasses, wildflowers and regional mixes. Call or email for free price list. 719-942-3935. [email protected] or visit...
  • CEO BUFFALO NATIONS GRASSLANDS ALLIANCE
    Chief Executive Officer, Remote Exempt position for Buffalo Nations Grasslands Alliance is responsible for the planning and organization of BNGA's day-to-day operations
  • "PROFILES IN COURAGE: STANDING AGAINST THE WYOMING WIND"
    13 stories of extraordinary courage including HCN founder Tom Bell, PRBRC director Lynn Dickey, Liz Cheney, People of Heart Mountain, the Wind River Indian Reservation...