How one "girl ranger" helped save the Southwest


Ed Abbey once called her a "girl ranger," and that's what she was, the very first. Lynell Schalk began her federal career tracking grave robbers and pothunters in southeast Utah, and ended it catching pot growers in western Oregon. She broke through the sagebrush ceiling as the first female special agent in charge in the Western United States, and she did a bang-up job.

Schalk, who winters in Bluff, Utah, and summers in Oregon, is retired these days, but she still volunteers for the BLM as a site steward-at-large, patrolling for pot-hunters and documenting illegal activities. A University of Washington graduate in philosophy, Schalk had been working as a swimming instructor when she read Ed Abbey's Desert Solitaire. It changed her life. She gave two weeks' notice, and at 23 headed towards the Southwest and a lifelong love affair with the landscape.

Schalk went to Natural Bridges National Monument, where she worked as a volunteer in the park for a per diem of $3 a day. Thus began her introduction to women's work in a male-dominated federal agency. As a seasonal ranger at Walnut Canyon National Monument in Arizona, her uniform was a white polyester knit dress, with a special version of the Park Service's arrowhead logo. It was only half the size of a man's – and she hated that.

As a seasonal worker at Navajo National Monument south of Kayenta, Ariz., she spent days alone at Kiet Siel, the second-largest cliff dwelling in the United States. In the oppressive heat of full summer, she'd see an occasional visitor, but more often she had the magnificent ruin all to herself. "It was always hot," Shalk recalls. "And once it got dark there was a constant pitter-patter of rats and mice. You couldn't sleep because of the night noises."

By 1974, she'd become a ranger for Grand Gulch, entitled to her very own 16-foot trailer. Her job was to nab the pothunters who were looting some of the most remote Ancestral Puebloan sites in the Southwest. Schalk eventually became one of the first Grand Gulch rangers, patrolling in everything from pickups to helicopters to horseback. One morning, as she was rounding up horses in a tight corral, she got kicked in her lower back. She lay screaming in agony, sprawled in horse manure. After almost a two-hour hour wait for an ambulance, she was taken to the Monticello, Utah, hospital, only to be placed on a stainless-steel table and given nothing for pain.

Finally, a physician arrived. Although it's been over a decade, Schalk will never forget his words: "Well, young lady, I understand you've been kicked by a horse. I hope it knocked some sense in you, and you will quit this job and get married." Instead, she got a gun.

In 1978, Schalk became one of the first Bureau of Land Management staffers authorized to carry a service revolver. She was also the first female officer. But the BLM had never had armed rangers before, and administrators thought that sidearms should be locked in truck gloveboxes, while rangers wore an empty holster on their duty belts. Schalk and her colleagues protested in a story that eventually made the New York Times. She stated, "You're putting our lives at risk because we are dressed as officers and that's how the public perceives us. We wear a badge and we need to be able to enforce it." Because they were not allowed to wear their weapons, the officers initially refused their commissions.

Rabble-rouser Edward Abbey then got into the controversy, telling Interior Secretary Cecil Andrus to "give these people the enforcement authority they need to protect the public lands of the American West." The secretary rescinded his gun-in-the-glovebox memo, and Schalk got her revolver.

She worked in Utah, California, Nevada, Idaho, New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado and Oregon, sometimes under cover, often alone. Schalk helped with the second prosecution of pothunters under the Archaeological Resources Protection Act, taught hundreds of federal and Indian officers and archaeologists about protecting artifacts, and retired after 28 years with a Superior Service Award.  In one case, she personally helped recover 150 Anasazi artifacts now at the Edge of the Cedars Museum in Blanding, Utah.

Retired U.S. Attorney Kris Olson called Schalk "the best case agent I ever had in trial. … Lynell was fearless, but not reckless, in pursuit of her duties."

Schalk is finishing a book she plans to call Plunder on the Plateau. I can't wait to read it. The Old West abounds with stories of sheriffs with their big hats and handlebar mustaches. Now it's the New West, and it's high time we learned about the "girl rangers" who saved 1,000-year old artifacts for us all.

Andrew Gulliford is a contributor to Writers on the Range, a service of High Country News ( He is a professor of Southwest Studies and history at Fort Lewis College in Durango, Colorado.

Note: the opinions expressed in this column are those of the writer and do not necessarily reflect those of High Country News, its board or staff. If you'd like to share an opinion piece of your own, please write Betsy Marston at

girl ranger Lynell Schalk
Darlene St.John
Darlene St.John
Apr 15, 2009 08:22 AM
well it sounds like a dream job in spite, doesn't it...
what a wonderful article. I get a lot of flack for going out into Gods country looking, scouting for wild horses to photograph.. guess what, it may be a mans job to some but.. this woman does pretty good. I think Lynell Schalk will be my newest hero and I admire her. This woman and my passion for life has gotten where I am today as a single Mom raising a fearless young girl!! Thank you for sharing, I will past it on to my daughter who would truly appreciate this at 11 yrs old.Montana skies are the limit and beyond!
First...authorized to carry a gun.
Eric Rush
Eric Rush
Apr 21, 2009 06:17 PM
Too fine a point, perhaps, but ALL Americans are authorized by The Second Amendment to carry guns.
First Authorized to Carry A Gun
M Lee
M Lee
Apr 28, 2009 08:33 PM
Too fine a point, indeed. When you work for the Federal Government you are only allowed carry a gun while on duty if specifically authorized.
Stopping the bad people
Newt Engle
Newt Engle
Jun 04, 2009 05:38 AM
The best way to stop a bad person with a gun is a good person with a gun. And I mean "person". It matters not if it is a female or male. Lynell is a good person who clearly was one of the best of the best at stopping bad people. She is truely one of the first line officers in our homeland security. We will never be able to thank her enough for all she has done for all of us.
guns again
rob streetman
rob streetman
Aug 06, 2009 08:17 AM
you gun advocates are just too much...a wonderful article about a truly inspirational human being and all you can do is bang on about the same ol' about a one track mind...
Guns---a basic tool of Law Enforcement
Barry Ashworth
Barry Ashworth
Feb 01, 2010 02:12 PM
Ahhhh, Rob, read the article again. Lynell was a very effective champion for Ranger's having all the tools of Law Enforcement, including and especially a weapon (gun) in their holster.

I know her well, and she is very special.
The other side of the story
Steve Allely
Steve Allely
Feb 09, 2010 10:44 PM
Andrew, there is another chapter to the other side of your "girl ranger" (whom I know) that you did not ever hear of nor know about, and I doubt you will hear it from her am sorry to say. The "girl ranger" has done much good to preserve archaeological sites and prosecute those who violate the ARPA and NAGPRA laws and I applaud that, but did you know she and her BLM people were investigated by the BLM's own internal affairs and by the US Justice Dept. office of professional responsibility for violating the rights of people who did not break the law but who were simply suspected of it and had their civil rights trampled? Did you know that she and her "agents" who worked directly under her out of the Portland OR office where she was SAC (Special Angent in Charge), lied on federal search warrants, threatened peoples careers, made very questionable and alarming arrests, put together absurdly sloppy affidavits that would have been thrown out in Federal court had it gone that far,and got in trouble over it in the mid to late 1990's? This story of a law enforcement career has another side to it, and some of it very alarming and sordid. Start with investigating the Patrick Hallinan case in about 1994. That will give you a trail to start on. The Hallinan case was featured on public broadcasting FRONTLINE program entitled "The Snitch" and the BLM under Schalk and her people played very heavily in that case although most all involved have mostly retired and have conveniently distanced themselves from it today. I am not trying to run the girl ranger down but there is another side you should investigate that I am telling you is is indeed true hard though that may be to hear.

S. Allely