The summer after graduating from college, we shared
the best job in the world. Armed with a GPS unit, a digital camera
and the keys to an electric-blue Dodge Durango, we were charged
with tracking down and evaluating the condition of historic
structures in Yosemite National Park. Since no map existed of the
nearly 700 historic structures scattered throughout the park, our
summer became a scavenger hunt through some of the most stunning
country in the West.
Our quarries included a stone
retaining wall, an asphalt parking lot, the apple orchard in that
parking lot, a collapsed mining cabin, a cinderblock comfort
station (park-speak for bathroom), a fire lookout tower, tens of
miles of trails, an elusive park bench that no one had seen since
the 1950s, and a huge dead fire-scarred tree with a tunnel through
it for stagecoaches.
Often the structures' locations were
not immediately obvious from the terse descriptions that remained.
Hetch Hetchy Railroad Engine No. 6 was not at the reservoir, but a
mile from our Park Service office in the town of El Portal. Nor was
the Hodgdon Meadow Cabin in Hodgdon Meadow, where we first looked
for it. When we finally asked our boss, she told us it was in a
place called "the building zoo." She didn't want to talk about the
building zoo. She refused, on principle, to set foot in the place.
You enter the building zoo, officially known as the
Pioneer History Center, through a gorgeous covered wooden bridge
that seems to take you back in time. Once inside, an original 19th
century bakery, a bank, wooden cabins, a blacksmith shop, a barn, a
patrol cabin, and a jail welcome you.
But this is not a
19th century pioneer village. The buildings were all moved here
from various locations within the park and reassembled in the late
1950s and early 1960s, during a post-war push to shore up crumbling
park infrastructure across the country. Some of the buildings were
slated for demolition; others were simply destined for oblivion and
decay in the backcountry.
During the Pioneer History
Center heyday in the 1960s and 1970s, a "living history program"
animated the site. Costumed park rangers baked bread in Degnan's
Bakery and gave tours of the board-and-batten wooden structures.
Now, due to budget cuts, most of the buildings are locked
tight. Visitors can still amble around the town, peering at musty
interiors through hazy glass windows. Volunteer blacksmiths make
trinkets for visitors a couple of days a week, and a stagecoach
driver still gives rides that rattle the wooden bridge. Visitors
can read interpretive signs that tell them how each building
represents distant times and places in the park's history: The
Hodgdon Meadow Cabin symbolizes battles over homesteading and
grazing in the park. Degnan's Bakery represents services provided
to early park visitors.
The vast majority of the
structures we surveyed during the summer never reach this Park
Service version of a retirement community. Many, hidden from view,
are allowed to age in place without intervention - victims of
deliberate park policy or just a lack of funding. We discovered
abandoned mine shafts filled with debris, cabins with foundations
and framing incongruously stacked in a grove of spindly pines, log
sidings rotted to the ground, and buildings literally flattened by
decades of snow.
You could easily pass by these
structures and never notice them. And even if you did, it would be
difficult to draw any conclusions about their past, for there are
no interpretive signs, no jovial costumed stagecoach drivers. But
there was a kind of wildness permeating these places, the same
wildness that makes so many of Yosemite's landscapes special.
Today, hikers who stumble upon rotting log sidings in the middle of
meadows and mountains can experience the thrill of discovery, and
the magic of being able to wonder at and interpret each structure
on their own terms. In doing so, each creates a new story.
That's likely why our boss didn't like the building zoo.
Why go see structures stripped of their habitats and contexts,
uprooted, relocated, and on display?
The buildings in the
building zoo are not eligible for inclusion on the National
Register of Historic Places, since they have been moved and thus
lost their "integrity of place" - an essential criterion for a
historic structure. But in a few more years - historic structures
have to be at least 50 years old - the argument could be made that
the building zoo, this historical place made up of historical
places, is valuable in itself, because it preserves a 1960s
interpretation of the park's pioneer history. The zoo may be
valuable not so much because it teaches history, but because it is
history. And what could be more fitting in a postmodern national
park?
Robin Pam and Erin Beller worked for
Yosemite National Park on research internships with the Bill Lane
Center for the Study of the North American West at Stanford
University. Robin works in online communications at the Center for
American Progress in Washington, D.C. Erin studies historical
landscape for the San Francisco Estuary Institute's Historical
Ecology program.
del.icio.us
Digg
StumbleUpon
Yahoo
Google
Spurl
Wists
Simpy
Newsvine
Blinklist
Furl
Reddit
Fark
Blogmarks
Smarking
Magnolia
Ozmozr


I worked for the National Park Service at the PYHC during the summers of 1978 through 1982, and was the assistant supervisor there for at least a couple of them. I appreciate your saying that the complex is worth preserving, although I am not sure the ironic pomo justification you offer is all that strong. What is so valuable about a "1960s interpretation of the park's pioneer history," as you put it?
Your essay seems to dismiss rather easily the sort of environmental/historical education that actually went on there for a good number of years--generally on a shoestring budget. The presence of costumed rangers baking bread and jovial stagedrivers was not really the heart of the matter. I think the contrast you are drawing between a belated, nearly archaeological survey of park architecture and the Mission 66 sorts of efforts that led to the PYHC could be made much more vividly if you had presented the perspectives of NPS staff and PYHC volunteers from that era.
Best,
Matthew Glass