A few weekends back, I was out in the front yard,
digging a deep hole. I cut out wedges of turf to mark the
dimensions, then went down through layers of topsoil. The first
foot was easy, through rich moist dirt. After that I hit seams of
gravel. The ground got drier and harder the deeper I went. Before
long I was having to pound away with the shovel, chiseling grudging
inches. As the hole deepened, the angle of the shovel handle became
awkward. I reached in with a bucket to scoop out dirt. It was cool,
but I started to sweat.
Cars went past. Drivers looked
over at the growing mound of dirt, another weekend project. I
imagined what I'd say if someone asked what I was up to.
"Planting a canoe," I'd respond.
I've had this canoe more
than 20 years. It's a Royalex boat with mahogany gunwales and ash
thwarts, once a cutting-edge hull design. It carried me all the way
across Canada in the mid-'80s. It spent a 10-month winter of 40-
and 50-below temperatures on the shores of Lake Athabasca,
patiently waiting for the ice to go off. It has carried the
supplies for entire summers, sat heavy on my shoulders across
dozens of portages, weathered rapids and storm-tossed lakes, served
as a windbreak while I cooked dinner on the tundra.
All
in all, a faithful and beautiful craft. More than that. A
companion.
As the hole got deeper, I re-measured the
stern of the red canoe. I shaved some dirt from the sides, kept
pounding, past three feet. The ground became hard as concrete. I
lay on my belly and hammered awkwardly against the bottom with a
big screwdriver to loosen dirt. The inches came slowly. My back
ached. I could hardly reach the floor of the hole to scoop out
loose dirt. With my head down inside, it smelled of grass and
earthworms and drought.
Last winter, the old canoe
developed the mother of all "cold cracks." It's a syndrome common
to Royalex hulls with wood gunwales. The plastic and wood freeze
and thaw at different rates, stressing the hull to the point that
it cracks. Loosening the gunwales helps alleviate the problem, but
even so, hairline cracks are common. This crack went through the
entire hull and spread almost halfway around the canoe.
I
noticed it in the spring, and had spent much of the summer thinking
about what to do. We didn't paddle that boat anymore. We'd moved on
to different canoes.
I thought about carting it off to
the dump, leaving it there among the piles of human detritus. But I
didn't like the feel of that. I considered patching the hull with
strips of fiberglass and giving it away, but I knew the boat was
done, that whomever I gave it to would be saddled with maintenance
and sooner or later the inevitable problem of disposal.
The thought of burying the boat flashed through my mind. It's not
easy to bury a canoe, not like when we laid the kids' favorite
hamster to rest under the apple tree. But the impulse had the right
energy. Maybe, I thought, I should sink the canoe to the gunwales
somewhere in the yard as a kind of planter. We could fill it with
flowers and pretty rocks, bits of driftwood.
One night,
before sleep, I told my wife, Marypat, that I had this crazy idea
about what to do with the old canoe. She listened. She didn't say
anything for a while, long enough that I wondered if she'd drifted
off.
Then she turned to me. "What if we buried it
upright, like a totem pole?"
As soon as she said it, I
knew she was right.
"Cool," I said. "Let's put it right
out front. You can't hide a totem in the back."
I wanted
the top edge of the stern seat above ground. At that, the boat
would be sunk more than 40 inches down. I scraped away at the hole
until I could barely reach anymore, thinking that the tradition of
burying someone six feet deep must have come from country with
really thick topsoil.
It was dusk by the time everything
was ready. I drilled some drain holes in the stern of the canoe. We
lugged it from the canoe rack. The kids came out to watch. A
neighbor strolled over.
It was a tight fit, just what I
hoped for. The sharp stern wiggled down, came to rest against the
bottom, the bow towered 14 feet in the air.
We poured
gravel into the hull to weight it down, tamped earth back in, then
more gravel. It didn't take long. We stood back. The boat faced
more or less east. The hull was beautiful, sleek, a taper against
the sky. It made me think of paddling across Lake Athabasca on a
still day, near twilight, with an island camp full of blueberries
rising ahead. It made me ache for days on the water; a sweet ache.
Just before dark, I went back out with a metal platter
and a glass vase filled with polished river rocks from the
Yellowstone. I set the plate just behind the rim of the stern seat.
The rocks gleamed there in the pale evening light.
Alan Kesselheim is a freelance writer based in Bozeman,
Montana. He is the author of nine books and hundreds of magazine
articles, and the proud owner of a few
canoes.
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