Mystery Salmon
Pull up to any fish buying
station in the Salish Sea and you will likely spy many stupid grins. The reason, as Mary Ellen Walling crowed last
week, is that “The
Sockeye are back!” The news is as
good as it gets in this long suffering fishery.
In the last few decades sockeye runs have underperformed so often that
the dominant question among researchers and fishers has been what happened to
the disappearing
salmon. In fact, last year there was
no fishery at all. Thus for anyone who
pays attention to salmon, the last month has represented a violent cognitive
rupture as Canada’s Department of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO) had to repeatedly
up its estimate of the number of sockeye running into the Fraser River to the
now historic figure of 34
million. Nobody alive has seen this
many salmon, not since the ill-fated year of 1913, when a railroad-induced
landslide at Hells Gate effectively destroyed an already declining
fishery. There are no experiential
reference points. We instead lean on
aging stories of the good times told by people now long dead, and we struggle
with, as one native fisher remarked, “overwhelming
emotions.”
Indeed, this is the best
of times, and as is wont in such circumstances, the spin has been fast and
furious. The DFO Minister cited
the run as evidence of the Conservative government’s dedication to
conservation. A. Brian Peckford, who
works in the offshore oil drilling industry, claimed the run proves that the
problem with Fraser River salmon is not decline but “variation.” Walling, who is executive director of the
B.C. Salmon Farmer’s Association, pummeled critics
of aquaculture, including biologist and activist Alexandra
Morton, who has linked industry practices to sea lice outbreaks and
devastated pink
salmon runs in the Broughton Archipelago.
According to Walling, the run proves salmon farms are not a
problem. Boldest of all has been the
Marine Stewardship Council, which in late July, in an act that can only be
described as stunningly prescient, anointed the Fraser sockeye fishery as an
MSC-accredited sustainably
managed fishery.
Given all these verbal
high fives, one might ask why fishers and scientists seem so ill at ease with
the good news. The problem, of course,
is history. Contrary to spin-makers’
claims, this is probably not the dawn of a new era, and the ninety-seven years
since 1913 do still matter. Both before
and after the MSC listing, environmental groups expressed shock that a fishery which the Canadian government is still studying with
hopes of understanding why it so often buffaloes regulators, and that the
Fraser Basin Council in 2006 described as “getting worse” over the last three
decades, should even be considered sustainable.
Also unnerving is the realization that no one foresaw this boon. The mere fact that DFO had to revise its
estimate twice
suggests the limits of expert comprehension.
Former fisheries advisor and author Dennis Brown cautioned that “No
one person has got this right,” and even leading fisheries zoologist Carl
Walters admitted that “We
don’t know what’s going to happen.”
Thus, as John Ryan noted while reporting on the sudden good times among Lummi fishers in the San Juan Islands, “Nobody expects
this year’s supersize run of sockeye to repeat any time soon.”

Health of fish in the Fraser River. Image courtesy of the Fraser Basin Council. Click on image for larger view.
History dogs this fishery
in ways too profound for easy sound bites.
The good times are indeed back, at least this summer, but for anyone
invested in the long term health of salmon and the communities which depend
upon them, this is not the moment for a “mission accomplished” fist pump. The more we study the past of this and other
fisheries, the more we bump up against the limits of understanding. Salmon fisheries are not conducted in a
laboratory. Oceans, river basins,
societies, and markets are each profoundly complex open systems, and salmon
draw these together in ways that make it extremely difficult to understand what
happened even in hindsight. And, as DFO proved once again, they are nearly
impossible to predict with consistency.
This is the lesson running through the brains behind of all those silly
smiles along the fishing docks. The past
lives on in these people, and their cautionary celebrations are a good sign.
Joseph Taylor teaches in the history and geography departments
at
Simon Fraser University, in Vancouver. He is the author of Making
Salmon: An Environmental History of the Northwest Fisheries Crisis,
which won the American Society of Environmental History’s best
book award. His forthcoming book, Pilgrims
of the Vertical: Yosemite Rock Climbers and Nature at Risk,
will be released in October. He lives in Oregon.